Upper Lake, looking North

Glendalough

Site guides tend to show a strong bias towards wetlands and coastal migrant haunts. Let us, for a change, explore some scenic mountain and woodland sites in the heart of County Wicklow.

We begin our two-location day in the car park at Glendalough. It is first light on a May morning (best time for birds and you will avoid the tourists). In the still morning air, Willow Warblers add their summery song to the chorus of Blackbirds, Thrushes and Wrens. A Raven clears its throat overhead, echoing across the dramatic U-shaped valley. The trees around the car park are a good spot for Jay. Proceed to the upper lake and work left along its shore to where a fast river enters it - a favourite spot for Dippers and Grey Wagtails. If you are lucky, a careful scan of the lake may reveal a Goosander or two (dawn, ie c. 6am, is the best time!). This rare duck is now breeding in small numbers in Wicklow. Cross the wooden bridge, pausing to listen for Blackcaps and Long-tailed Tits, then follow the wide trail, which zig-zags up through the oakwoods.

Persistence and patience are called for now. Stand, listen and wait. Soak up the wonderful smell of leaf mould, admire the fine moss-covered oaks and let everything come to you. A Red Squirrel scampers up a tree, upsetting a pair of noisy Mistle Thrushes. This prompts a normally secretive Jay to join in the excitement with its raucous cry. You can while away two or three hours just working slowly through the trees. Stop and listen. Most of the classic oak woodland species are here in abundance - Treecreeper, Great Tit, Blue Tit, Spotted Flycatcher and Cliiffchaff, and of course Chaffinches are "pink-pinking" everywhere. A Cuckoo often flies right through the woods, Sparrowhawk. attempt surprise attacks and Siskins dangle out of the upper branches. It is no secret that these woods also host two rare breeding species - Redstart and Wood Warbler - and even occasionally Garden Warbler. Several years ago, a Golden Oriole (which overshot France) spent several days singing to himself. Once again this year on 31st May a first year male bird sang near the Upper Lake. A walk up along the track by the upper lake to the old mine workings is worthwhile and should add Stonechat, Reed Bunting and Wheatear to your day list. Watch the skies for patrolling Ravens, Peregrines and Kestrels. This year in late May an Osprey was recorded in the valley.

Glendalough is a very rich area for birds. The key to a successful day is an early start and, as with any woodland birding, a keen ear and lots of patience.

Upper Lake Glendalough, c1848,
George Victor du Noyer (GSI)

Click for large 24KB image

Glenmalure

A packed lunch at the car park near the top end of Glenmalure valley will set you up for the afternoon, scrambling up the steep scree slopes in search of Ring Ouzel. They can be difficult to find and have declined in recent years. If you are not feeling so energetic after the early start, at least give the cliffs a good scan with a scope from the car park. You are more or less guaranteed Peregrine, Raven and Kestrel. The rather sparse oakwoods along the roadside do have Jays and Blackcaps, and occasionally Redstart and Wood Warbler. Garden Warbler have been seen around the O'Dwyer monument with Whinchat in the scrub on the far side of the road. Keep an eye (and ear) out for Cuckoos and a small Sand Martin colony. A tough hike up to Art's Lough won't produce much other than Meadow Pipits and Wheatears but the view is spectacular looking down this magnificent glaciated valley. Red Grouse do occur on the higher moorland areas above Glenmalure and Glendalough, but human traffic has tended to push them to the more remote high ground. You may also turn up the odd Merlin. Buzzards after an early attempted to breed in Glenmalure are now seen only sporadically but with their recent spread into east Wicklow, they could once again colonise this area.

by Dick Coombes

Getting there... Glendalough can be reached by the St. Kevin's bus service from Dublin, via Bray.
Ph 01-2818119, Dep: Dawson Street, opp Mansion House.
St. Kevin's Bus
Glenmalure is only accessible by car, bicycle or very energetic hiking.